Pet Care Resources: Newsletter

The love and companionship of pets can be found in the harshest conditions, even in a war zone. A number of recent news reports have detailed how American soldiers serving in Iraq have found and unofficially adopted canine companions amidst all the fighting. The bond these soldiers form with their new pets is strong, and the animals raise morale and provide the kind of comfort not easily found in the war-torn country. But U.S. military regulations prohibit soldiers from keeping pets, and so when troops are deployed to another area of Iraq or are sent home, they face the difficult task of leaving behind their newfound companion. However, the Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) and a number of other groups in the U.S. have joined together to help bring dogs from Iraq back to America and reunite them with soldiers and their families.

Operation Baghdad Pups, an initiative sponsored by the SPCA and the group I Love Dogs, is leading the movement to help bring soldiers' pets back to America. Operation Baghdad Pups' first success occurred on Feb. 14, 2008, when Charlie, a border collie mix, set his paws on American soil for the first time. Much of Charlie's back story is obscured due to Army regulations. According to the SPCA, members of a military unit known as Charlie Company found a small black-and-white puppy while on patrol one evening. The puppy was weak and malnourished and so Sgt. Edward Watson, one of the members of the unit, scooped up the puppy and brought him back to their base. The whole unit cared for the dog, giving him fresh water and portions of their own rations. They named him Charlie and soon the dog was the unit's unofficial mascot. But when orders directed Charlie Company to move to a new location, Sgt. Watson couldn't bear to abandon his new friend. Sgt. Watson contacted SPCA International in October 2007, and an effort soon began to transport Charlie to the United States.

Charlie and Sgt. Watson. Photo courtesy of SPCA International.

Since then, Operation Baghdad Pubs rescued three more dogs. On Feb. 23, two dogs—Liberty, a mixed-breed puppy found in the aftermath of a house raid, and K-Pot, another mixed-breed pup found entangled in razor wire outside a military outpost—journeyed from Baghdad to New York City, and on March 13, a Shepherd/Border Collie mix named Socks landed in Washington, D.C. after befriending countless soldiers during a three-year stay in Iraq.

Other groups around the country, including local animal shelters and societies, have gotten in on the act as well. In February, the Best Friends Animal Society of Utah helped coordinate an effort to bring two puppies named Mama and Boris from Iraq to Detroit. The puppies belonged to Army Sgt. Peter C. Neesley, who found the pups outside Fort Apache in Baghdad. Neesley died of undetermined causes in 2007, and his family enlisted the help of U.S. Sen. Carl Levin to bring the dogs home.

K-Pot and soldier. Photo courtesy of SPCA International.

Bringing a dog or cat out of Iraq and back to the United States is no easy feat. According to the SPCA, it costs about $4,000 to rescue each animal; much of that money goes toward transporting the animal. However, each animal must receive rabies and distemper vaccinations and an overall health evaluation before they can be transported. As of late April, 2008, Operation Baghdad Pups has brought seven dogs and two cats from Iraq and Afghanistan to America and is working on more than 45 active request cases from the two countries. Once in America, the pets are usually placed in the home of a soldier's family member.

Since many of us believe that a house is not a home without a cat, we need to ask ourselves if our home is a safe place for them. If you have children, many of the safety measures needed for cats are probably already in place. If not, then it is necessary to look around the house and fix potential hazards.

Even cats that spend most of their time indoors may be exposed to a number of potential hazards. Disinfectants, drain cleaners, and detergents are among the many household chemicals that are toxic to your pet. They should be stored in tightly closed containers and secured cabinets where pets are unable to reach them. Medicines should also be stored out of reach.

Sharp objects such as knives and forks, carpet tacks and pins should be kept out of reach. Children's toys and small objects may attract a playful kitty and become lodged in its mouth or swallowed. Although kittens are sometimes pictured with a ball of yarn, a playful kitten and yarn are a bad combination. If ingested, yarn as well as any kind of thread, twine or ribbon could cause serious damage to the esophagus and intestinal tract.

According to the National Safety Council, as many as 5,000 house fires a year can be attributed to pets as a result of their chewing of electrical cords. In order to prevent this hazard, do your best to keep electrical wiring out of your cat's sight and reach. Exposed lamp cords and other wires should be kept as short as possible. If extension cords are used, tack them against a baseboard or run them under a carpet so they cannot be played with or chewed.

If you live in an apartment, your cat may be vulnerable to "high-rise syndrome." If your window screens are not securely fastened, a cat may fall from a window and suffer serious injuries, if not death. A cat should be sufficiently restrained or confined if allowed on an apartment balcony.

According to the Center for Disease Control, 74 percent of homes in the United States built prior to 1980 contain hazardous amounts of lead paint. As with humans, any item containing lead can be extremely harmful to a cat. Harmful effects may not show up until weeks after ingestion. Signs of lead poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea or constipation, loss of appetite, loss of muscle coordination, blindness, and seizures. Consult your veterinarian immediately if you think there is a possibility of lead poisoning.

In addition to indoor dangers, outdoor hazards are often found in the garage or shed. Harmful products include windshield cleaners, weed killers, insecticides, used motor oil and antifreeze. Many cats are attracted to the sweet taste of antifreeze (believe it or not!) containing the chemical ethylene glycol which is highly toxic to cats. If it is spilled on the ground or leaking from your car, it can combine with a puddle making it exceptionally easy for your cat to drink it. New antifreeze products have been introduced that claim to be non-toxic to pets, but it's always better to be safe than sorry. Be sure to clean up spills of any questionable liquid to avoid injuring your kitty!

Wherever the hazard may come, it is important to remember that your cat is not so different from a child. Curious paws and noses may inevitably discover areas that have yet to be "kitty-proofed." Once you get to know the likes and dislikes of your cat, it would be much easier to determine what is hazardous and what has not made your cat's priority list of noteworthy attractions.

Ultrasound is a non-invasive, modern technique that produces a visual imprint of the interior of the body. It allows the doctor to achieve a depth of detail that is not possible with X-rays.

Veterinary Ultrasound Machine

Abdominal ultrasound allows the user to fully examine the liver, gallbladder, spleen, adrenal glands, pancreas, kidneys, urinary bladder, and parts of the stomach and intestines. Ultrasound examination of these organs is crucial when a diagnosis depends upon seeing inside an organ, or when surgery or anesthesia would not be desirable. Abdominal ultrasound is completely painless, and generally can be performed using no anesthesia or sedation. Abdominal ultrasound has revolutionized the study of liver diseases, and is crucial to treating many types of cancer.

A Warning to All Dog Owners

As early as the 1960s, experiments have indicated a link between the ingestion of xylitol and hypoglycemia in dogs. However, it has only been recently that the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center has begun to receive reports of xylitol toxicosis in dogs. It is believed that this recent rise is likely due to the increased use of products containing xylitol in the United States.

Effects of Xylitol Ingestion

In both humans and dogs, the levels of blood sugar are controlled by the body’s release of insulin from the pancreas. In humans, xylitol ingestion does not cause any significant changes in insulin levels or, therefore, blood glucose. However, in dogs, xylitol causes a fast release of insulin, which results in a rapid decrease in blood glucose (hypoglycemia).

Clinical Signs

Clinical signs of xylitol toxicity can develop in as few as 30 minutes after ingestion. Clinical signs may include one or more of the following:

• Vomiting
• Weakness
• Ataxia (uncoordinated movements)
• Depression
• Hypokalemia (decreased potassium)
• Seizures
• Coma
• Liver dysfunction and/or failure

Treatment

After ingesting a xylitol-containing product, dogs may receive one of more of the following treatments, depending on the amount of time that has lapsed since the ingestion occurred. The induction of vomiting is recommended if performed very soon after ingestion of the xylitol-containing product but before clinical signs develop. Frequent small meals or an oral sugar supplement may be used to manage dogs that have not yet shown clinical signs. Following the appearance of clinical signs intravenous dextrose can be used to control hypoglycemia. If indicated, treatment for low potassium levels (hypokalemia) may be necessary. Treatment should be continued until the blood glucose levels return to normal.

For more information on this and other poison control questions the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center can be reached at 888-426-4435 or visit their website.

In order for any dental program to work properly, home care follow-up is essential. Brushing your pet’s teeth is the single most important procedure the owner can do to maintain good oral health. If performed regularly, daily brushing will dramatically increase the interval between teeth cleaning appointments.

Plaque is constantly being made and deposited in the mouth. Humans have a buildup of plaque in the morning. This accumulation of plaque makes our breath smell bad. Proper dental care, for dogs as well as humans, can keep plaque buildup under control. People brush their teeth several times daily to remove plaque—why not our pets?

The goal of dental home care is to remove plaque from tooth surfaces and under the gum line before it mineralizes into calculus, a process that occurs within days of a teeth cleaning. Success depends on the owner’s ability to brush the pet’s teeth, as well as the dog or cat’s acceptance of the process. True oral cleanliness can only be achieved through the mechanical action of toothbrush bristles above and below the gum line.

Home care is best started at a young age, before the adult teeth erupt. The younger the animal is, the more likely he or she is to accept it.

Your veterinarian may discuss the advantages of home dental care at the time of your pet’s first vaccinations. Daily brushing not only keeps your pet’s teeth clean and healthy, it also enhances the bond between you and your pet.

A misconception is that hard food keeps pets’ teeth clean. Some believe that when their dog or cat chews on hard food or biscuits, mineral deposits are broken down and the teeth stay clean. This is not true. Granted, animals on soft diets accumulate plaque more readily than those on dry foods, but the only way to keep teeth clean above and below the gum line is by daily brushing.

If you are unsure of how to brush your pet’s teeth, you may want to ask a veterinary hospital staff member for instructions. There is nothing better than a hands-on demonstration for learning this.

Proper brushing technique involves applying the bristles at a 45-degree angle to the gums. Use small circular motions around the outside of the teeth, being sure to get the bristles under the gum line. It is not as important to brush the inside of the teeth, as dogs and cats do not accumulate tartar on the insides of their teeth.

Proper Brushing Technique

The most important area to keep plaque and tartar from accumulating is under the gum line. Adding products such as Oxyfresh to the drinking water or rubbing the teeth with dentifrice impregnated pads may help in home care, but it’s necessary to understand that periodontal disease begins below the free margin of the gum line.

How to get the pet to accept tooth brushing

Start with a healthy comfortable mouth. Untreated problems can cause pain and a non-compliant patient. Dental pathology must be cared for first. If you suspect that your pet has an accumulation of tartar, a painful mouth (he pulls away each time you touch his head or jaw), bad breath, or a problem chewing, drinking or swallowing, a veterinary dental exam is in order.

Choose a proper toothbrush and toothpaste. Toothbrushes have bristles that reach under the gum line and clean the space that surrounds each tooth. Plaque accumulates in this space. Devices such as gauze pads, sponge swabs, or cotton swabs remove plaque above the gum line, but cannot adequately clean the space below the gum line.

The size of the toothbrush you choose is important. There are specific brushes for mouths of long muzzled dogs, as well as small brushes for cats. Each dog or cat must have his or her own toothbrush. Sharing brushes may result in cross contamination of bacteria from one pet to another.

Introduce the toothpaste and toothbrush gradually. When you sense that your pet has had enough, give him reassurance by talking and try again. Expect progress not perfection. Reward progress immediately with a treat or a play period after each cleaning session. Don’t expect to brush your pet’s teeth on the first try. Take time. Each pet is different. Some will be trained in one week, while others will take a month or more. The payoff is well worth the learning curve.

The type of dental home care products dispensed by your veterinarian may vary from animal to animal. Trust your veterinarian to dispense the products that are best suited to your own pet’s dental needs.

Thanks to the creation and marketing of cat litter in the mid 1940's, more and more cats have become indoor-only pets. As such, cats are now leading longer lives, with some living 20+ years! Our homes offer a safer, healthier environment than life on the street. The average life span of an indoor cat is 10 years, whereas the average lifespan of an outdoor cat is just 2 years. There is no doubt that indoors is safer.

Yet, when we choose to make our cats indoors-only companions, we have a responsibility to provide the stimulation that was previously provided by the great outdoors. Scratching and climbing posts become trees; interactive toys become hunted birds, bugs and field mice. A rotating array of cat playthings provides excitement, unpredictability and exercise which, in turn, gives your cat everything it needs while extending its life inside. With that said, many cat lovers still prefer to commune with nature with their feline friends. Fortunately, there are several ways to minimize the risks.

Most importantly, while vaccinations are important for indoor cats, they are absolutely critical to the health of outdoor cats. The threat of rabies, FeLV, FIV, and FIP, transmitted through altercations with wildlife, or interaction with stray, unvaccinated cats, should be enough to have your cat immunized in order to give you peace of mind. All of these diseases can be prevented and can provide your outdoor cat with proper protection should he need it.

If you feel as though your cat deserves the fun of being outside, but want to provide a safe way to experience nature, there are alternatives to opening the door and watching him go. Harnesses and leashes (gasp!) have been developed for cats. Either cat specific or small dog accessories fit well and are relatively inexpensive. Training your cat to walk with the harness takes patience (unless you start with a kitten, in which case it could take less time), but the reward is worth it. Your cat will be able to experience the joys of being outside in a controlled environment. How far he can travel is up to you!

Outdoor enclosures are another great alternative. Since outdoor enclosures are usually homemade, they come in all shapes and sizes. For durability, chicken wire or wire hardware cloth - secured around a simple wood frame - is preferable to ordinary window screening. The most successful structures usually feature climbing and resting furniture inside. A shaded area is necessary for warm or hot weather. Whether you choose an outdoor enclosure or add cat-proof netting to the top of traditional fencing, they are safest used only when you are at home able to check on them often.

Even with the option of training or providing your cat with an enclosed outdoor adventure area, you still need to consider identification. Lost cats result in heartache that can easily be avoided. Microchip and ID tags provide easy identification and may be what reunites you with your cat should he / she get lost or scooped up by a caring, but ignorant stranger.

When deciding whether or not to let your cat outdoors, it is important for you to consider the alternatives. As the pet industry expands and becomes more creative, more and more indoor/outdoor products are going to become available. Of course, there is nothing better than being outside. If you can provide your cat with the proper care and protection, allowing your cat to go outdoors can be a fun and healthy existence.

Domesticated dogs are most likely descendants of wolves. Many behaviors naturally exhibited by dogs are reflections of wolf-like ancestry, rooted in instincts thousands of years old. Some of these behaviors are at odds with the wishes of the dog owner, who wants a domesticated companion that responds to human cues. Understanding the natural basis of canine behavior can be the best place to start a successful human-animal relationship.

Social Behavior: Dogs retain some of the basic behaviors of wolves, including living in relatively small social groups, following a leader, and exhibiting territorial protection. Dogs have relatively stable, hierarchical social structures that mediate interactions between group members and help them avoid regular aggressive confrontations. Complex body signaling of dominant and submissive postures is involved in the establishment and maintenance of these hierarchies. Therefore, in domestic life, it is important for humans to maintain a leadership role in the household.

Communication: Dogs use a combination of vocal, visual and olfactory cues to transmit a variety of messages from friendly greetings to threats. A vocalization should be evaluated in association with the dog’s body language and the situation in which the vocalization is delivered. Visually, dogs use their body posture and expressions to relay messages. A dog that uses body postures to increase apparent size is usually trying to drive off another party. Conversely, dogs that use body postures to minimize their size are often encouraging approach. Olfactory cues play an important role in communication. The scents are often at levels undetectable by humans.

Sexual Behavior: Intact female dogs will come into heat about every six months. During early estrus, the female dog becomes more playful and urinates more frequently. Non-neutered male dogs often exhibit behaviors such as urine marking, mounting, and roaming. Neutering often curtails these undesirable behaviors.

Chewing/Ingestive Behavior: It is normal for dogs to have a desire to chew on a variety of items, and they usually seek items to chew if they are not provided. Dog owners should provide their pets with numerous chew toys.

Elimination Behavior: Dogs do not instinctively know to eliminate outdoors. They start to move away from their nesting area to eliminate when they are about three weeks of age and usually continue to avoid eliminating close to their sleeping and eating areas throughout life. At about eight weeks of age, puppies develop a preference for eliminating on a particular kind of surface (grass, dirt, concrete, etc). This desire often becomes a lifelong preference. Dogs may use urination to signal submission to a person or another animal. This is a normal communication behavior that usually is exhibited by young dogs. Dogs also may eliminate in situations of extreme fear.

An infant brings many changes to a household, and it’s best for your pet if you can make many of these changes during your pregnancy. Cats and dogs are sensitive to routines, and by making changes before the baby arrives, you minimize the chances of your pet resenting the baby when she arrives.

You should assume that you are going have less time for your pet after baby is born. Start by decreasing the number of hours you spend with your dog or cat in the weeks before your due date.

Consider whether your pet’s walking, exercise, or feeding schedules are going to change, and adjust them now.

Evaluate your dog’s obedience training. If he doesn’t respond to commands such as "Sit," "Stay," "Heel," and "No," can’t walk obediently on a leash, has a jumping problem, or exhibits any aggressive behavior, seek professional help immediately.

If you have a cat, make sure her claws are trimmed regularly.

Children can seem very strange creatures to animals. They are loud and fast, erratic and unpredictable—characteristics that can startle or frighten a cat or dog. If your pet has had little or no contact with children, it’s important to begin the socialization process as soon as possible.

As you prepare your home for your newborn (setting up the crib, buying baby powder, lotion, and diapers), allow your pet to see and smell these items so he can get used to them.

Don’t allow your pet to climb onto baby’s furniture or blankets. Cats especially like curling up in the crib or bassinet. If your cat does this, remove him or her and keep the door to the nursery closed.

Get a sealed container for soiled diapers. Cats and dogs are very attracted to odors. Dogs, particularly, love dirty diapers and may drag them around the house.

Create a place for the pet that is off-limits to the baby. Pets, too, need to get away from the baby from time to time.

One of the best ways to strengthen the bond between you and your cat is to play games together. When you play with your cat, you become the most interesting object in his or her life. Not only is playtime fun for your cat, it’s also a great way to get your cat to exercise, both mentally and physically.

Following are six games you can play with your cat. Not every feline will want to play every game on this list, but certainly there are at least a few games here that you and your cat will enjoy. While most of them require objects you may have around the house, there are also a number of toys available that provide the same fun. The key is to actually play with your cat in order to create a fun and lasting relationship with your cat while also keeping them trim and healthy.

Paw Hockey - Play this game in a room with hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors that has at least 10 square feet of free floor space. Break off an eight-inch square of aluminum foil and scrunch it up into a hockey puck shape. (Please remember that foil balls should always be thrown away at the end of the game. They are fine for games, but are not safe for unsupervised play.) Show your cat the puck and then flick it with your fingers so that it goes skittering across the floor. Your cat will then chase after the puck, batting it with his paws and making it scoot from one end of the room to the other. If your cat starts to lose interest in the game, pick up the puck and give it another flick.

Staircase Dash - With your cat at the top of the stairs and you at the bottom, fling a ping pong ball to the top of the staircase, against the side wall, one or two steps in front of where your cat is sitting. The ball bounces down the stairs and your cat should race down the stairs chasing after it. When the ball reaches the bottom of the stairs, probably with your cat just a step behind, fling the ball back up to the top of the staircase. Keep tossing the ball up the steps until your cat gets tired.

Bathtub Scurry - Put a ping pong ball in a clean, dry bathtub. Remove the bottles of shampoo and bars of soap and plug the drain so the ping pong ball doesn’t get lodged there. Put your cat in the bathtub, show him the ping pong ball, and bounce the ball off the side of the bathtub. As the ball bounces around, your cat should chase after it. If the ball starts to slow down, give it a good roll off the side to get it moving again and to keep up your cat’s interest.

Chase the Thing on the String - Get an aluminum foil ball, hollow plastic Whiffle ball, or catnip mouse and tie it to a three-foot piece of twine or heavy string. Pull the string along the floor in front of you, over the cat furniture, or up and down your staircase and let your cat chase after the object. Be sure to allow your cat to capture the object every once in awhile so he/she can feel like a successful predator.

Shadows on the Wall - Turn off the lights in the evening and shine a flashlight on a nearby wall. Dangle bouncy cat toys or other small objects in the light and move them back and forth so their shadows race up and down the wall. Your cat should leap up at the wall trying to catch the elusive prey.